Travels Around Argentina

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  • It's the 8th largest country by area but in my opinion rather easy to move around whatever your chosen mode of transport. Not everyone likes long land journeys though obviously and many or most overland journeys in Argentina are quite boring.


    What have you done, where have you been and by which modes of transport of note?


    My trip this time last year I only used flights between AEP and Bariloche, then Bariloche to Salta, then Salta to AEP. Flights with Fly Bondi and Aerolineas Argentinas. All on time and all very good.


    I've travelled by bus from BA to Bariloche and back as well some years ago. 24 hours each way on Chevalier. Again very good but perhaps not for everyone.


    And another bus there and back from Mendoza to and from Vina Del Mar which are definitely the best overland journeys I have made. Now that is an easy journey of 6 hours or so and spectacular.


    And another time from Iguazu to Florianopolis in Brazil which, again, was an excellent overnight bus ride but I forget the bus company.


    Meanwhile, back in the tiny collection of countries that constitute the UK, travel is expensive, unpredictable and very stressful!


    What say you?

  • I'm not posturing but trying to stimulate a discussion. I can expand in more detail on any of those journeys of interest. Most of those journeys I took 30 and more years ago. There's no end of travel experiences in Argentina I still plan to do. Ushuaia. El Calafate, Welsh Patagonia....

  • During our first years here, we traveled by airplane internally to know the rest of the country (cheap tourism for residents).

    We always flew with Aerolineas Argentinas as it was the only option available at the time.

    I have flow once with FlyBondi from AEP to Iguazú, and then back from Paraná (capital of the Province of Misiones) to AEP. My experience was very positive, but I am reading a lot of negative reviews lately. Maybe I was lucky or it has gotten worse?


    I am not a big fan of long distance buses, although they are a cheaper option than plane. My issue is that they leave from Retiro station, which has become less and less safe over the years, especially if you are dragging heavy luggage with you and are distracted by that. Another issue is that they never have working bathrooms, so I wouldn't consider it for a trip longer than 5 hours.


    I took the bus from Retiro to Mar del Plata (and vice versa) a couple of times before we had a car. Right now, with the gasoline being so cheap, there is no convenience in taking the bus if it is two of us traveling. Especially considering that once in Mar del Plata you don't have the same amount of public transportation and taxis as in Buenos Aires. So, the convenience of having a car to move, is very worth the cost.


    I took the bus also from Retiro to Mercedes (province of Corrientes) to go to Esteros del Iberá, given that you then need a 4x4 vehicle to get to Colonia Carlos Pellegrini and be able to drive on muddy country roads. The bus was clean, we were served a hot beverage, a small alfajor and a movie was shown. Then the lights went off and time to sleep!

  • Although we generally travel by plane or car, 18 years ago, I talked my husband into traveling to Mendoza by overnight coach, then flying back to BsAs. The coach was all I expected, from positive expat accounts: Roomy leather seats that reclined almost flat, tasty meal, snacks, and plenty of mineral water. We arrived in Mendoza rested and ready to check into our hotel and see the vineyards.


    The only downer was that in Retiro station we were distracted by a couple frantically “looking for their departing coach,” and let go of our day pack, which was snatched by their fleet-footed associate. Haven’t been back to Retiro station since.


    Happier memories from some of our other trips:


    1) Ten-day drive through much of Córdoba province with friends, seeing parts of the historic Jesuit Road; enjoying an asado at the family estancia, among the meandering brooks and wild horses; and seeing both lovely towns and majestic nature.


    2) Flight to iguazú, timed for nighttime walk at the Falls on the night of a full moon. The walk was cancelled by rain, but the trip was fun. Nearby animal & bird refuge was also educational.


    3) Flight & car to Villa la Angostura, where we rented a delightful house with a central fireplace, which we used every night, in the cool mountain weather. Loved the town, which undoubtedly has grown, but at that time was a charming little village.


    4) Flight & car trip to Salta, Cachi, Cafayate, Jujuy, and points NW. Stayed in a variety of small hotels and B&B’s, went to our first Peña, met interesting people, and marveled at both the desert terrain and the saguaro cacti in Los Cardones national park. Lunched in the two vineyards that have legitimate but differing claims to being the highest in the world: Finca Las Nubes outside Cafayate and Donald Hess’s Bodega Colomé in Molinos.


    5) Flight to Punta del Este, then bus to Montevideo. Had an apt in a PDE high rise with lovely ocean view and howling wind to sleep to. As it was November, we spent the week walking around the deserted streets of PDE, mostly looking for an open restaurant. In Montevideo, we kept looking at each other and saying “Why are we here? We could be back in Buenos Aires!”


    6) Car trips to Mar del Plata, Pinamar, Cariló, and Costa Esmeralda with friends. All filled with great memories.

  • Nice memories apart from the Retiro incident. It's a place my wife always warned me about whenever we've been there in the past. We used to use the very comfortable Belgrano coach service whenever we travelled to the capital. However we stopped preferring just to hire a taxi to take us instead.

    Only long distance coach service I've been on was from here to Neuquen where our friends lived. Even though it was comfortable the overnight journey was too long for me....never again!! On the trip we also stayed in Villa La Angostura and toured about the area. I remember being impressed at the sight of the snow capped mountain/volcano Lanin in the distance.

    Enjoyed Montevideo but two days was enough. Iguazu falls are okay but a wee bit overrated....

  • Oh heck Iguazu falls overrated UK Man ? I don't know how to respond other than I've been twice and think it's the most beautiful natural place on earth.


    On the Chevalier bus journeys I did to and from Bariloche, I'm going back a very long way, it was June/ July 1992. The bus stopped for an evening meal somewhere or other and we got a chicken dish, all in the ticket price. Then back on the bus and as the evening progressed, the bus steward or whatever you might call him came through the bus with a very generous pour of whiskey or brandy. He did not hold back at all on the measure. Then on came the movie and that was it. Damn impressive I'd say. That all said, I would rather fly these days but don't regret for minute those journeys and the memories generated.

  • Oh heck Iguazu falls overrated UK Man ? I don't know how to respond other than I've been twice and think it's the most beautiful natural place on earth.

    I am with you on this, Bombonera . I have only visited twice, and the first I was so overwhelmed by such a different display of nature, that I think I didn't appreciate the falls enough. On the second instance, I was speechless in front of the Devil's throat fall. It's like history meets evolution, and one feels so insignificant in the history of the Earth. Truly magnificent!

  • I suspect the reason I wasn't gobsmacked was because of the number of other tourists. plus I knew what to expect.


    I remember while on a cycle tour in Canada I saw a sign at the roadside for "Path for Brandywine Falls''. As I had some time to spare I decided to follow it through the forest. Depite the lovely weather there wasn't a soul about. It was so quiet walking amongst the massive trees I half expected a bear to suddenly appear and swallow me.

    Suddenly the path came to an end and what I saw before me was this.


    Brandywine-Falls-4871.jpg

  • This conversation makes me want to go back to Iguazú. The feeling I had there was the same I had at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe: the overwhelming power of nature! I can’t complain about hoardes of other tourists because as I recall, we were able to spend as much time as we wanted, staring at the Devil’s Throat. Unbelievable beauty!

  • I've been to Iguazu twice but not since 2003. Looking at some videos on Youtube, the town looks a lot more developed these days.

    Anyway, what I would like to know, is there anything any of you do up there, or places you like to visit beyond the obvious trip to the falls.

    I'm going to head up there early May for a few days and interested in some more unique ideas you good people may have for a visit.

    Jesuit Mission?

  • A strange selection, Not totally convinced they are the five nicest places in Bs As....

    Must admit the only one that sparked any interest in me was Villa Ventana, mostly for its hilly terrain.

    I've been to Iguazu twice but not since 2003. Looking at some videos on Youtube, the town looks a lot more developed these days.

    Anyway, what I would like to know, is there anything any of you do up there, or places you like to visit beyond the obvious trip to the falls.

    I'm going to head up there early May for a few days and interested in some more unique ideas you good people may have for a visit.

    Jesuit Mission?

    Can't help you I'm afraid. We just went to see the falls. Third visit to the area for you? I find that surprising, have you got a woman up there? ^^